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It
all started on the first Saturday in February.
As I was coming out of the Lago pool, the idea
of sailing the coast of Menorca was suggested
to me. We had met Bob, the skipper of the boat,
at FITUR. He was visiting the ADN stand and it
seems now that the idea of a naturist cruise was
born then and there.
At the beginning, I was
puzzled as we hardly knew each other, but the
idea was very appealing. A few days later, we
found ourselves discussing dates, flight schedules
and so on. We couldn’t wait…

At last,
the day arrived and after a pleasant flight, (and
an unpleasant hostess), we, the four apprentice
sailors, landed in Maó. Just outside the
airport, we met Pili and Bob waiting for us. They
welcomed us warmly, took us to the harbour, where
the sailboat was moored, and we dropped the luggage
and had a snack they had prepared for us. In the
afternoon, we went shopping for supplies and has
a walk in Maó. None of us had ever been
in Menorca. It was overcast which made us fear
bad weather ahead, since our hosts said it had
been like that for a week.
Everything was open, which struck us as odd: the
boat, the cars, even the doors to the houses.
It was obvious these people don’t have the
big city criminality problem.
The next day, (and the
following days), it dawned brightly, sun-shining,
clear skies and a soft breeze inviting us to sail.
Bob presently came to the boat and suggested places
we could go to, coves to sunbathe and swim, small
islands or coves to spend the night in. His advice
was always accurate, although the wind and the
sea conditions must also be taken into account.
None of us knew anything
about sailing but, after some basic instructions,
we left port. We helped Bob with the sails and
I was even allowed at the helm. I could not believe
how fast we were sailing in such soft breeze.
As we were leaving the harbour, Pili snapped a
few pictures of us already in the nude. What a
feeling! We were sailing on the Aire island course
and, once there, we anchored the boat and started
enjoying the water. The turquoise blue water in
shallow areas really made an impression on me;
I had never experienced anything like that before.
It was an invitation to plunge in. The water was
about 20º C which was another surprise as
we expected the water to be cooler.
We all ended in the water, (in diving outfit
and all). How wonderful! The water was crystal
clear: ten meters deep and we could see
the sea-floor! We could also see colourful
fish, a few sea-anemone, algae and a huge
jelly fish some twenty metres away. We all
wished we could stay there for good.
As we were coming
out of the water, we noticed an approaching
boat and the people on it were also naked.
I reckon, the magic of the place gets on
to you and makes you go natural.
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We went
to an island after dinner and, there, we saw some
peculiar small black lizards which only exist
there; the island was full of them. Then, we went
back to Maó to spend the night in a sheltered
cove near the harbour.
The next day, we busied
ourselves scouting the northwest coast, going
on the Colom island course. We anchored the boat
and swam by the beach. After a delicious barbecue
on board, we kept on sailing towards Fornells
and spent the night there. Once in Fornells, we
got bad news from the weather forecast service,
Tramontana wind was expected that same night.
We had a shaky night because of the force of the
wind and landed to check the sea from the other
side of Fornells. After considering the situation,
we decided not to go on sailing. We spent the
afternoon at a cove within the natural harbour.
Fornells is a lonely place. We only met a pleasant
French couple. We returned to the harbour in order
to spend the night, and kept wishing the next
day the sea were calmer.
The next day was unforgettable
as it was going to be full of new experiences.
The weather forecast did not sound good, from
heavy swell to rough sea and 6 knot winds. I did
not have an idea of what all that meant until
we saw it for ourselves. Bob suggested that we
did not sail but we were bored in Fornells and
were prepared to take risks. Then, Bob warned
us that if we decided to leave we could not come
back due to the wind. The truth is that we went
out to sea although Bob’s warning had frightened
us a bit. Leaving the harbour was a bad beginning
as the waves were almost from 3 to 4 metres high.
Every time we went over a wave, my dear travel-mate
kept yelling: ‘I can’t help it. It’s
like a roller coaster!’. After a while,
your body gets used to all this rocking and somebody
feels in the mood for shooting his video camera
and Bob actually gets down to the kitchen to make
coffee – (in all this commotion!) . When
we were half way, Bob tells us if we had not got
sea sick yet, we’ll never be as the waves
were 6 metres high, then. (to cheer us up, I imagine!)We
finally reached Ciudadela. We had been sailing
the north and part of the west coast in 5 hours.
We had not been able to stop at any coves, which
in hindsight is a good excuse to return in the
future.
At Ciudadela, the weather
changed for the better, radically. The wind died
down, the waves vanished, a very pleasant afternoon
followed and we could finally have a swim and
go for a walk. At about 6 o’clock, as we
were coming back from stroll in the city, I told
my wife: “ I must still feel sea-sick because
the ground seems to be moving under my feet”
I did not attach any importance to that and we
kept on walking. Ciudadela is very nice and enjoyable
town. At about 11 o’clock at night, we were
sitting at a terrace by the harbour when the water
suddenly began to leave the harbour; it went 2
metres lower in 5 minutes. We were flabbergasted!.
Bob had never seen anything like that, either.
Some people started taking it lightly and making
jokes: “somebody must have pulled the plug”
and things like that. We tried to make up explanations
but we did not really have a clue. Moreover, we
were worried about the keel as it might break
if our boat touched the sea-floor of the sea.
Luckily, it did not happen. After another 5 minutes,
the water started filling the harbour again; this
time with extreme force. The sea went so high
that it started to overflow, flooding the pier
in places. At that moment, we were all dumbfounded
and the jokes had ended as nobody knew what was
taking place.
Bob got a call from Pili
in Maó, who said that a giant wave had
wrecked boats moored there. The crest of this
Tsunami took 12 minutes to disappear and five
hours to make the trip from Algiers, following
an earthquake there.
The water kept going
up and down all night. I realised, then, that
I had not been sea-sick but that the ground had
been actually moving. The local newspapers reported
the next day that the earthquake had been 3 degrees
on the Richter scale in Ciudadela itself. Up to
170 boats had sunk in Menorca. What a pitiful
sight!
We kept sailing down
south along the coast, which is not as rough as
the north coast. We also stopped at several coves
and enjoyed the sun and the water. Lived-in houses
and eye-sore hotels could be seen from the coast
in this area. We also saw the cove of Xoroi, where
the famous disco is, as we were reaching Coves,
that is the name of the cove were we planned to
spend the night. Bob told us then that there are
people who dive from the terrace, which is quite
high, so as not to pay for their drinks. Cove
is an unbelievable beautiful spot. It is a cove
full of troglodyte caves which were inhabited
until very recently by people who played musical
instruments. It was a pleasure to hear them from
a boat anchored in the cove. They used to live
off manufacturing and selling handicrafts and
they would bathe naked. They had lived there for
many years, and they did not bother anybody, until
the town authorities decided to seal the caves
with iron doors. Nobody lives there any longer.
We
continued our trip down the southern coast
on the Maó course. That was our last
day sailing. We hardly had any wind and so
we had to resort to the engine to keep on
moving. We were already used to the sails
and missed them.
We arrived in Maó
in the evening. As we were arriving in port
we began to see the effects of the Tsunami.
It was a pity to see the wrecked boats and
all the general destruction. We could also
see several cranes trying to pull the boat
out of the water. As the boat at our dock
was still sunk, we had to moor elsewhere.
Our sailing round
Menorca ended this way. We spent two further
nights on the boat, (Pili and Bob´s
compliment), as our return tickets were for
two days later.
I would like to thank
Pili and Bob again, for all their hospitality
and kindness toward us. They managed to make
it possible for us to have an unforgettable
time and I wish them good luck with their
business. We also wish them that their sail
boat goes under full sail, (with our help
if we can).
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Alfonso
Ayuso
Membership No. 590. More
information: www.menorcaenvelero.com
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